To tcc:
I have double checked the switch connection and i think my initial logic is correct. This is a quote from what i found. Although it is based on the US regulation (ie 110V), the logic should applied here as well.
"Wiring should always be done according to National Electric Code rules, both
for safety and for insurance purposes. The switch MUST go in the hot side,
NEVER in the neutral side. The reason for this is so that when the switch is
off, all current is cut off to the appliance or device being powered. If you
switched the neutral side, there would still be a full 115 volts being
applied to one side of the circuit, and the appliance would always pose a
shock hazard, even when switched off. Switching the hot side removes all
voltage to the appliance, and leaves the appliance grounded for safety when
it is switched off. To wire otherwise is a violation of NEC code, and could
possibly introduce some liability issues should someone be killed or injured
by the appliance, or should there be a fire and the fire or insurance
inspector later discovers the appliance was not correctly wired according to
code. The black wire should be the hot side, and white should be neutral.
(The National Electric Code mandates that the lighter colored wire should be
ground. The exception is green, which is ALWAYS ground, and can NEVER be
hot. On the 110 v polarized 2-prong plugs, the wider prong is always the
ground; the narrower prong is hot. It is customary for appliance cord to
carry a rib or ribs over one conductor. The ribbed side of 2-conductor wire
should always be the ground side. When doing your own wiring, it is always
best to do your work as conservatively as possible, and that means to use
3-conductor wires with a 3-conductor plug. By wiring the third (green) wire
to the metal frame or metal case of the appliance or lighting fixture, the
frame or case is permanently grounded and should never pose a shock hazard,
which is of special interest for an electrical item being used around water.
The electrical department of hardware stores should carry little paperback
booklets that illustrate or describe how wiring should be done to conform to
NEC. They're usually very inexpensive booklets, and will help keep you out
of trouble."
There is also another site with a wiring diagram:
http://misty.com/people/don/f-lamp.html#wd
Note that it is good practice to ground the metal casing of the light fixture for safety.
Also, since the L feed the ballast, which generate the required voltage and current to the tube. If the switch is not on L, b4 the ballast, that means the ballast is always live fed. Any short, or accidental touching with ur hand will then provide a complete circuit for the current!
Btw, I open up the light fixture of both my PML and cyberaqua, and this is the situation: all switch correctly connect on the L wire, b4 the ballast. Ground wires of the 2 lights are connected to the casing properly.
So the basic connection is correct, and the fixture properly grounded for safety(provided of course that the power plug of the light is 3-pin).
So, no need to rewire the switch, just change the ballast to e-ballast. My 25W magnetic ballast in the cyberaqua was not enough to drive the 27W PL tube, that's why it flickers when start up. I simply change it with an e-ballst, and now it works beautifully.
Maybe the numbness is sth to do with the magnetic ballst?
I recall now that the numbness is only felt when light is on.
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